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I also pour a liberal amount of glue in the slot and then scrape it out to help coat the slot in that area.

Perfect to save your pickup shoes from the dreaded Aurora track!! It's the best idea I have seen yet to make a slot car track in wood. Below I am using a clamp to apply pressure to hold the h0 slot ch and the broken slot together with the help of a good wood glue.

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Once the section is joined into the straight, the pressure will be relieved. That's the plan anyway The weakest link on the track is the small section between the rail and the slot on the side the rail applies pressure h0 slot ch. At the time it was produced to help get rid of O-gauge track to the HO slot car ethusiasts. Seems to provide for a better contact point and keeps the rails level.

If not, I will resort to a bit of fiberglass resin.

Not a big deal for sure. The lane spacing is even wider than my 4x8 oval. On the outside, the Aurora O-gauge track will probably be raised even higher than the oval so that it gives a bit of a scenic overview for the cars up there. This would be the rail in the inside of the curve on each lane.

I'll also have to run some fencing on the outside of the "ring,".

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I have it both going around the perimeter of the track and on the inside. The picture below shows my experiment with a 4-lane inside track using 6-inch radius curves. The plastic laminate holds up well but a couple of slots on the curves sheared at the end - you can just see the cracks.

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I recommend to get 10 feet away from your living area at least With four screws on each joint, it's super easy to crank them down to adjust until the track has a perfect run from one side to the next.

I will try my best to raise the inside two lanes to match the curves of the routed track. I am sure glad Aurora had the foresight to produce this specialty track piece. You may also notice some conversion pieces to reduce the lanes down to standard HO h0 slot ch. The nice part is that the oval will be completely removable should I want to do so.

Here's a test fit of the joints on the wood track But the joy is in the width of the track: I think I will do some simple scenic hills to roll the outside track into the 4x8 oval. Oh, and a word to the wise, cut the MDF outside. I also picked up a LapTimer 4-lane timing system to add to the new oval.

Notice I staggered the rods so that they but into the groves of the adjacent section.

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I simply used the skill saw to round off the corners to give me enough room for my O-gauge track to run around the perimeter. Good thing folks like me can make good use of it some 46 years later! The MDF base makes for a very safe base to protect the rails at the critical joints.

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I was covered in dust when I tried to do it inside even with the garage door open. It's all coming together. I plan to remove the dust catching grey carpet and replace it with green paint.

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Now that I think about it, I think I did the right thing making it in sections. I am beefing h0 slot ch up with wood glue and clamps - should do the trick.

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Black drywall screws do the trick. Check out that super rare Aurora O-gauge track. I am countersinking 4 screws per track piece. I figure every bit helps. In retrospect, I probably would have pre-joined a traight and a curve and run only one long rail around but the h0 slot ch is really too much for the slot to survive pushing such a long length.

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The 4x8 oval has a perfect inch radius on the inside for the Aurora O-gauge track. The result is a very soft round top side. Notice I had to completely clear the table and the carpet.

The only O-gauge track pieces available are 9-inch straights, 6-inch straights, and inch radius curves. Fortunately, the wood glue works really well. Because of the shape of the rails round I was able to carefully push them in the slot from one end.